In a second floor dancebar with blackened windows in a dingy alleyway in downtown New Delhi, several hundred men and a handful of women dance to western commercial house music and Bollywood show-tunes under a giant rainbow flag.

In July, on the bustling streets of Calcutta, hundreds of queers of all genders stage India’s first gay pride march to demand the repeal of section 377 of India’s penal code – an outdated law that was drafted in the time of British rule forbidding ‘carnal intercourse against the order of nature’.

In a cyber cafe in Jaipur, young men cruise online on internet dating sites.

These are the faces of gay life in a country in which, until very recently, homosexuality remained taboo.

Welcome to India in 2008 – where gay and lesbian Indians find themselves part of the cultural changes that are sweeping this country of one billion people.

For the first time, queers are slowly emerging as a visible presence in the intense tapestry of religious and secular customs and traditions that make up this remarkable country; becoming visible in the media, in Bollywood films, and even in their own night clubs in the big cities. It wasn’t always the case. Change has just occurred in the past few years, as India slowly transforms into a more outward looking and globalised 21st century country.

But although India is only just starting to come out of the closet, gays have always been part of Indian society.

“I would say that most Indian men have homosexual experiences as a part of their growing up, but few actually consider themselves to be gay,” says Rashid, who I met in Mumbai.

“Up until very recently there was no gay culture here, no community or even bars where people could meet – so it was very much a case of being very discreet and invisible.”

In the past few years, support groups for gays and lesbians have sprung up in Indian cities, and the internet has revealed a massive population of queers across India, all wanting to connect with others like themselves.

“The internet has revolutionised life for gays in India,” Rashid says. “Before we had to lead quite dangerous and closeted lives, but the net has actually blown the closet doors wide open for us.”

Legal discrimination

The repeal of Section 377 of the penal code has become the focus of India’s gay rights campaigners. Although this law still exists, there have been no convictions for homosexual relations in India for the past 20 years. But the law has reportedly been used to harass transsexuals and sex workers in India, while AIDS organisations complain that its existence on the statutes hampers their efforts to contain the spread of AIDS and other STIs.

In June this year Delhi held its first gay pride march, demanding the repeal of Section 377. Similar marches were staged in Calcutta and Bangalore. Following these demonstrations, both the Indian High Court and the Indian Prime Minister, Manmohan Singh, called for greater tolerance towards homosexuals.

As recently as June this year, two young men in Perumbilavu province in Trichur were involved in a suicide pact after one of the men was rejected by his family after coming out.

Such cases are not uncommon in India, particularly in rural areas, where homosexuality remains stigmatized, according to the Queer Media Collective, a group of professional journalists who aim for a more balanced treatment of gay, lesbian and other queer issues in the Indian media and entertainment industries.

Planning a Trip to India?

Although tourists should not expect to find a gay holiday destination, such as those which exist in Western nations, India is certainly coming out of the shadows, and a widening of rights for gays and lesbians seems inevitable.

Visitors to India should not interpret the apparent intimacy between men, such as hand holding and cuddling, as anything more than a part of Indian masculinity – certainly not as an indication of homosexuality.

However, in Mumbai, New Delhi and Bangalore it’s possible to find gay clubs and bars where you can experience India’s gay and lesbian life first hand. In other parts of India, registering with one of the online chat sites will quickly connect you with other same-sex attracted people – but please, be discreet: this is not Oxford Street or Commercial Road!

Travelers should explore India with an open mind, as it is a thoroughly rewarding experience on so many levels. India holds its own rewards for the discerning traveler –queer or otherwise.

Links

www.queermediacollective.wordpress.com

www.utopia-asia.com/tipsindi.htm

lakshyatrust.org

www.guysformen.com