Berlin is a fascinating, fast-paced and complex city. The atmosphere hasn’t changed much since the days when Sally Bowles sang ‘Life is a Cabaret’. Gay life there is full-on, hectic, exciting and fun; however, there’s not much belief in love. Oh, and yes, there are still neo-Nazis. A gang of them recently defaced the Homomonument to the victims of Nazi persecution.

Berlin has not one gay area, but five. The two best established are Schöneberg, and Prenzlauer Berg. As well, there are alternative centres in Kreuzberg, Friedrichshain and the up-and-coming Mitte. The city is both the most openly gay and the least expensive capital city in Europe. It was voted Most Fetish-Friendly City in Europe three years ago and that’s still pretty true. You can find anything you want in Berlin.

The mayor, Klaus Wowereit, told the press just before his election, “I’m gay and that’s OK,” and that has become the motto for the whole 500,000 strong GLBT community.

To get your bearings, head for Mann-o-Meter (www.mann-o-meter.de) at Bülowstrasse 106 , near Nollendorfplatz Ubahn (underground station). I’ll list them as ‘U’ from now on. It’s open from 5pm to 10pm and is a welcoming place, crammed full of free information about the gay scene, including the free magazines, Siegessäule (www.siegessäule.de) and Sergej. There’s usually someone there who speaks English.

Follow the listings and you’ll soon find yourself in either Schöneberg’s Motzstrasse or Fuggerstrasse, or Schönhauser Allee in Prenzlauer Berg.

But a city is made up of its people, as well as its venues, so I talked to some gay guys about their impressions of the scene today and their experiences there.

Jurgen (22) is a student. “The most important point in my gay life is my friend, Alex, with whom I’ve been having an open relationship for three and a half years. We got to know each other through Gayromeo. He’s also a student.

“It’s not always easy to keep a long-term gay relationship going in Berlin. Maybe that’s because you can find instant sex with other men so easily. You really have to work at it to keep any kind of stable circle of friends – otherwise you find yourself completely alone again after the sex.

“I’ve got another friend, Rainer, that I often go out with to explore the current gay scene in Berlin. You need to do this, because it changes so quickly.

“When I want to drink with friends I go to Heile Welt near U:Nollendorfplatz (Motzstrasse 5, from 6pm) or the Ackerkeller (Bergstrasse 68 U: Mitte alternative crowd, pub/café from 7pm, parties Tuesday, Friday and Saturday from 10pm). When I feel like dancing I either go to das Schwuz in Kreuzberg (Mehringdamm 61, U: Mehringdamm Cover charge, from 11pm) or die Busche at Mühlenstrasse 11 in Friedrichshain. If I want to see some crazy sex I go to New Action at Kleiststrasse 35 (U: Nollendorfplatz), with its cage and play area.

“When I’m just after sex I usually find it through the internet, Gaychat or Homo.net. In theory you can make your sexual preferences clear before you meet the guy. If only people didn’t tell such whopping fibs on the internet! I’ve had guys turn up at my door expecting sex that used a photo taken before I was born on their profile.

“Saunas in Berlin mostly draw an older crowd, only the Treibhaussauna (www. Treibhaussauna.de) attracts some younger guys.”

Matthias (33) is slightly older than Jurgen. He moved to Berlin to be closer to his boyfriend, Carsten. Carsten (36) is a sales manager for a farm machine manufacturing company which sells its products worldwide, including in Australia. He met Matthias, an aerobics instructor, in a disco.

In some ways they’re opposites: Matthias is a bundle of energy, continually cracking jokes with a dry edge. He’s tried everything and his wit can be pretty sardonic. Matthias is most himself when he’s dancing and it’s a pleasure to watch him and his cute butt.

Carsten couldn’t take his eyes off Matthias and Matthias was impressed with Carsten’s sturdy build and air of assurance. It wasn’t long before they were in bed together and the sparks flew. They have fun together, like a pair of slapstick comedians.

“My favourite pub is the Stiefelprinz in Fuggerstrasse, Schöneberg,” Matthias says. “There’s a really pleasant gay restaurant called ‘More’ in Motzstrasse, also in Schöneberg . Carsten and I often eat there.”

Matthias and Carsten have enjoyed each others’ company for a year now, but they don’t live together. “I don’t think I could live with anyone else and I’m sure they couldn’t live with me,” Matthias says.

It’s a typical Berlin attitude: always waiting to see if someone better is around the corner, waiting to whisk you away beyond the horizon.